Wave Riding

The Philosophy of Wave Riding

Wave riding isn’t a checklist of maneuvers. It’s a relationship with the wave — sensing energy, reading sections, and flowing with rhythm.

Reading the Wave

• Learn the language of patterns; predict what’s next
• Seek the steepest sections — that’s where power lives
• Scan side‑to‑side, not just ahead; the best section might be less obvious
• Texture tells a story: glassy, organized = steep; choppy = flat
• Feel acceleration in the pocket; flat lifeless feel means you’re ahead

Staying in the Pocket

• The pocket is the steep, powerful part of the wave
• Manage position actively; it’s always moving
• When you’re too far ahead, cue a cutback before you reach the flats

Cutbacks: Pocket Management

• Start while you still have energy
• Look back at the breaking section; the board follows your eyes
• After the cutback, immediately hunt the next steep section

Feeling the Wave

• Read feedback through the board: acceleration vs. flatness
• Centered weight to respond quickly to changes
• Don’t just look — feel. Let sensation guide timing and pressure

What Most Surfers Get Wrong

• Treating wave riding as rigid maneuvers instead of flow
• Looking too far ahead and missing the present section
• Fighting the wave instead of redirecting with it

Developing Your Reading

• Start small; refine pocket awareness without heavy consequences
• Drill cutbacks until automatic — they’re survival, not just style
• Watch others for timing and positioning cues

Pro Tips

• Feel, don’t overthink
• Stay active in positioning
• Let sound and feel indicate pocket vs. flats
• Cut back early; read side‑to‑side

Wave riding is about connection, not control.